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Ironhead Bike starts at key. Can’t figure out what’s shorted

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So This is a jump off from a previous thread. I had an issue with my bike not starting. I found the issue was in the control wiring being loose. I replace with new switches. When installing one wire touched the handlebars, causing the bike to attempt a start.

I clipped every wire and checked all the connections inside the headlamp bonnet, but the bike still goes on at the key, which is less than ideal since I’m working on it. Any idea what might have happened? It’s a 1977 sportster.


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F.S. Front & rear fendrs off 2002 883R

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I have a set of fenders off a 2002 883R
Harley race orange . Excellent used condition .
$175.00 + shipping .
Having trouble posting pictures .
I can E mail them to you .
Thank you Tim

Help and suggestions please!!! (Knocking, Idle Hanging, Gas Overflowing, Carb Tuning)

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Hey all!!! New to the forum and it's been helping me alot.. I'm 31 years old and have a 1997 xl.883 upgraded to 1200.. Wiseco forged pistons set up too a 10:1 compression. Yost power tube with 185 main jet and 46 idle.. just did a complete top end gasket kit because the last owner did a piss poor job and started pissing out air from top jugs.. been having a fair amount of problems since doing the top end... 1) knocking from front cylinder(only in the heads,sounds like rockers clicking)
2) engine will rev high once I come to a stop.. 3) when come to a stop the overflow tube starts to piss out alot of gas, once I start to ride it stops.. it has a Arlen ness big sucker air filter and a bassani road rage exhaust.. really wish I could get the mixture to idle figured out aswell... just a guy at home that knows how to use tools but not how to tune a carb...

Goodworth Clatford, 1st June 2019

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I toyed with calling this ride report 'Egypt, And Other Villages', or 'Sprat And Winkle', before reverting to the prosaic.

Today I went on a ride to Goodworth Clatford in Hampshire. Goodworth Clatford is on the River Anton, a couple of miles South of Andover. It is on the old Sprat And Winkle Line, the Andover to Redbridge railway line, axed in the Beeching Cuts in 1967 (gone, but not forgotten).

There was no particular reason for choosing Goodworth Clatford as a destination; I wanted to explore the area between Petersfield and Andover, following quiet lanes along the banks of little rivers (the Anton and the Dever), and crossing them on narrow bridges. Goodworth Clatford just happened to be a convenient place for a lunchtime stop.

This is the route that I took:



I went along the A272 as far as West Meon Hut (Loomies Café), and then went on little country lanes through Gundleton and Bighton to join the B3046 just North of Old Alresford. Then along the B3046 to Northington, and along little lanes again through East Stratton and Micheldever. Today was East Stratton's village fete, and there were marquees and bunting and such being set up as I rode through. It looked just like a scene from Midsomer Murders!

After Micheldever I followed the course of the River Dever through Stoke Charity, Wonston, Egypt, …

Egypt! Whaaat? No, not the country; Egypt is a little hamlet, not much more than a row of cottages, on the outskirts of the village of Sutton Scotney. Old maps (eg: the OS 1st series of 1817) show an 'Egypt Mill' on the River Dever at this point. Maybe the hamlet is named after that mill?

From Egypt, I rode North. That's a sentence I never thought I'd write! North to Norton, then West through Bullington to Barton Stacey, then through Bransbury and, leaving the River Dever, up to the A303. I only stayed on the A303 for 2½ miles, then went down Cowdown Lane to Goodworth Clatford.

I had wanted to take some photos of the old wooden water tower in Goodworth Clatford, but it was surrounded by scaffolding. Evidently it is as ramshackle as it looks! Here are a couple of old pics instead:





I had lunch at the Royak Oak in Goodworth Clatford. A pint of Clatford Best; the pump sign referencing the Sprat And Winkle Line:



and a sausage and onion baguette. Both the beer and the baguette were pretty good.

The Royal Oak:







Goodworth Claford:













Here are some old pics for good measure, the River Anton in Goodworth Clatford, the first showing the ford that gives the village part of its name:





This is my return route:



Up Barrow Hill to the Fullerton Road, and along that road to Fullerton, with a little diversion to ride through Longstock Park. I stopped in Fullerton by the bridge over the River Anton.

I parked the bike up by this little cottage:



This is the bridge over the river:





The old mill downstream of the bridge:







From Fullerton I went through Wherwell and along the first 3½ miles of the A272, then along Down Farm Lane to the River Itchen, which I followed through the Worthies (Headbourne Worthy, Kings Worthy, Abbots Worthy, Martyr Worthy), Itchen Abbas, and Ovington, then past Alresford to Ropley. From Ropley, along little lanes through West Tisted and Privett to rejoin the A272 to home.

The bike played up a bit on the way back: the idle hanging way high. It was a bit intermittent, sometimes worse than others. After filling up at Petersfield, it was pretty much back to normal, getting better as I rode on towards home. I think it was stale gas from the bike sitting for months (health issue: could hardly walk, never mind ride).

Total distance 123 miles.

A good ride, outbound especially. The return ride wasn't as much fun as it could have been, due to the issue with the bike. I'll just have to go on another ride soon to make sure that the bike really is OK now! :D

1977 ironed with 1999 sportster fronted help

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I have been working on my new project. It is a 1977 sportster basket case I am building. I sourced out a 1999 sportster 39mm front end. I got a new wheel and rim on the front as well. I have an 11.5" rotor on the wheel. However i have tried 2 different 4 piston callipers that say they will work with the front-end. but do not. I am running a 21' 40 spoke wheel. the caliber is hitting the spokes (single caliber left side). Is there a solution to use a different type of caliber??:(

New young member

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Hello everyone! I’m new to this forum and new to owning a Harley. I’m 24, from California and I’ve been riding motorcycles since I was 11. Had a motorcycle liscence since 18 but never owned a street legal bike until 3 months ago. I bought my first Harley! It’s a 2006 converted 883 to 1200 xlh that had only 4400 original miles. It’s now at 6300 and counting! It has a wide glide front end with 39mm fork tubes with a 0.75” x 1.5” schedule 40 pvc spacers, forward controls, 16” x 1.25” black ape hangers, PBR exhaust, stage 1 air cleaner and 13” Dana glide shocks. Thank you very much for letting me become an official member to this forum. I have learned many things already as I changed those ape hangers out myself and also the clutch to a BDL clutch pack to get rid of the gernade ring.

Your daily tunes...

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I will start with this one....

[video=youtube;8oYodfK4DkE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8oYodfK4DkE[/video]

Ironhead Front forks on 66

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Working on a 66 that’s sat for a long time. When push down on forks, they stay down. So I tried draining oil. No oil in left fork and maybe 2 oz in right that was very black, and kind of smelled like thinner or varsal. So do I just flush it with something and refill or disassemble it? If disassemble do I need any special tools? Thks dave


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New from CT

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Hey guys,

Tried logging in swearing I made an account a while back but guess I never did. Have an ‘82 iron head for about 10 years now. Dad got it new back in the day, little less than 20k on it now. I learned to ride on the bike and loved it. About 5 years ago I crashed (didn’t put kick stand up). Wasn’t too bad ripped the carb and air cleaner off and a couple more minor things. Rode it for another two years then picked up a Yamaha fz09. I now have both bikes and the sportster say for the past 3 years. Decided to start it last year and gas came from the carbs. Bought a rebuild kit last week and did my first real work on the bike rebuilding the carb.

It has a hypercharger and alternator on it (dad replaced generator years ago). Bike started up today after carb rebuild. I have both jets screwed in all the way, but heard they should be 1/2-1 1/2 turns out. It’s running but I want to make sure it’s dialed in. Should I be backing out the jets? Any other suggestions? I need a new rear tire but I’m afraid of that job right now. Thank you.

What Trips Do You have Planned for 2019

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(saw a post like this on another forum...thought it was a great idea)

What are you planning for 2019?

From location to location?

Is it a straightest route type or is a whimsical see were the road takes you kinda trip?

Are you riding by yourself or with a group (size of the group)?

Preparations to the bike?

Pre-planning or off the cuff?

Minimum miles you expect to cover on this trip?

Camping or Hotel?

Must have equipment?

Why?

Sights you are for sure going to see?



Kevin

New guy in Nashville, Tn

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Joined because I need to learn everything I can about Sportsters. This is kind of a bucket list thing. Was able to get a 2009 Nightster for $2000 want to build a 99" stroked motor out of it. I have read Mat Hormells thread about his experience building a 90" Hammer Perf. motor and am impressed but, not big enough. LOL I would appreciate any help finding threads on 99" builds. BTW, The guys at Hammer Perf are great as they wasted no time getting me a quote the same day that I called them. What really impressed me was when I called them back and asked if they could work with me building the 99" they made it clear that they would rather I get with S&S or someone else to do that. They know what they know and stick with it, at least until there is nothing more to learn I guess. I gotta love that.

Tim
Edit 99" Being 4 5/16 stroke X 3 13/16 bore. Just a mild stroke to get power where I want it. Never really been a RPM junky.

Ironhead Rear brake caliper -- 81 XLH

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Caliper froze up on me today. Had an issue getting it off as the nuts for the mounting bolts were spinning freely. Finally, I pinned them from behind with long screwdriver.
Does anyone have a fix? l was thinking maybe JB Weld.


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Rubbermount_EFI Powervision - How to Combine Multiple LOG Files ?

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Is there an accepted / correct way to combine multiple Powervision LOG files ?

I'd like to combine multiple logging sessions from a weekend..... and perform the analysis on 1 file vs 6 unique log files.

Combining the .csv files in EXCEL doesn't maintain the TIME offset across files & then there's the extra header rows to deal with / edit out. Dynojet's Powercore s/w doesn't like this attempt at combining files & altering data, either.

Is there some other tool / method I'm missing ?

Ironhead Ironhead S&S Super E don't run right

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Tried to post in another thread section but did not get much help so trying over here. I have a 59 ironhead I have been building and I can't seem to get it to run properly. The carb is not having it right now. So stock tune for an S&S super E on my carb does not squirt out any fuel. Stock tune but accelerator pump backed out a bunch so fuel is squirting out. It will start for a fire a couple times and die and when you give it gas it really dies. The only way to get it started and running for more that 3 seconds is to back out the idle fuel mixture screw out. When I do this is idle super super high and when i give it gas it will die for less than a second then rev up even higher. I have a video of it on the stock tune with the accelerator pump backed out. At one point in the video it start for a second and wants to die but if I give it any throttle is just dies.
https://streamable.com/1wu2a
I can make another video of it completly screaming with the idle fuel mixuture screw out a bunch but that probably wont help. This seems like it could be intake leak related, but I am not sure. I have an after market intake that fixed the air intake leak problem before.
Anything helps! :wonderlan

Ironhead '82 Ironhead

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Have an ‘82 iron head for about 10 years now.

Decided to start it last year and gas came from the carbs. Bought a rebuild kit last week and did my first real work on the bike rebuilding the carb.

It has a hypercharger and alternator on it (dad replaced generator years ago). Bike started up today after carb rebuild. I have both jets screwed in all the way, but heard they should be 1/2-1 1/2 turns out. It’s running but I want to make sure it’s dialed in. Should I be backing out the jets? Any other suggestions? I need a new rear tire but I’m afraid of that job right now. Thank you.

Rigid_EVO timing curve on 1200

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Hi guys, does anyone know the timing curve on a std 1200 ignition module
32465-98,????
Had mine go down on me when hot, so ive ordered an Ultima programmable kit, but not sure which curve is similar to the std curve.

Done 500 ish miles on the sportster softail custom now, then this happens, stuck by the side of the road in the hottest day this year in UK lol

Ironhead Cam (gear) Case Cover Clarification

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I am hoping to get some help with what I am looking at. I have a 1977 Harley Sportster... engine case and frame have matching VIN: *3A51210H7

I have done some researched and confirmed that VIN represents a 1977 Harley XLH 1000

This question is in reference to the crankcase breather. My understanding is this bike should have a "Foo-Foo Valve" coming off the 6 O'Clock position on the Cam Case (or gearcase, which is preferred nomenclature?) cover over where the generator sits. What confuses me is this case has that threaded outlet at the 6 o'clock position, but from the inside of the case there is some kind of gear that port through the top of the cover. I have both the factory parts manual and the service manual, but it doesn't reference this gear. Any help is appreciated!

The picture below shows the outside of the Cam Cover...sorry it is so blurry. I circled the two "ports" I am talking about.



The picture below shows the inside of the Cam Cover and I circled the gear I was talking about... I can not find this thing referenced anywhere...


Thank you for any help you can lend!

Also, as a bonus! Anybody have any helpful hints for putting the cam cover back on and lining the two generator bolts up, alone!

Thank you!

Ironhead Compression issues with my 79 XLH

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OK, first a little backstory...
Approx. 18 months ago I tore down the Top end of my 79 XLH.
Had a hole in my front piston.
I got new pistons, rings, cylinder base gaskets and head gaskets to do the job.
I had the cylinder bored .10 over, and honed, and pistons fitted to the cylinders.
Everything looked pretty good to me. The shop (good rep) said everything was good to go as far as cylinder condition and pistons fitting. Oh, I did get .10 over pistons.
SO far so good.
I put it back together.
It was starting hard, so I jump started it.
Bike was running. I took it up and down the road, about 3/4 of a mile all together.
It was late Fall so the plan was to make sure it ran. It did. then to put it up for the winter and do the fine tuning in the spring.
Come spring, I went to start it and right off it started, ran for about 5 seconds and stopped.
I tried to start it and it was turning over like it always has, a little slow, and then I heard a "clunk" and it started spinning more freely.
I messed with it for awhile, pushrods, Carb,Spark. No luck.
I walked away from it for awhile. I had 3 other bikes that needed my attention so it went on the back burner.
I'm back at it.
I put my finger over the spark plug hole while turning it over, and I can feel it push and pull as the pistons move.
I tried a compression gauge on the bike, and got from 30-60, by that I mean I'd test it and get 30, I'd test it again and get 60 either way not nearly enough compression.
Pushrods move and I've adjusted them again.
I'm running low on ideas on how to figure out what's wrong short of tearing it all down again. I really would like to avoid that if possible.
Anyone got any?
Something I could have missed that could cause these symptoms that I should look at?
Something I may have forgotten or just did wrong that might cause this?
Happened to you?
I'm wide open to suggestions.
Any help would be appreciated.

Rear Wheel Reoval and Tire Change Rant

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After searching and reading and searching and reading I tried to pull the rear wheel and no matter what I did, the rear wheel would slide out easily until the rear tire rubbed up against the caliper. So, I removed the one bolt, removed the caliper and easily rolled the rear wheel out.

Now for the rant part. The local HD dealer quoted over $200.00 to change each tire if the wheels were on the bike, just over $100.00 if the wheels were off. This is why I'm removing the wheels myself. So I took the rear wheel and tire to them to mount and balance the rear wheel/tire and they refused the job. The reason being I hadn't purchased the tire from them. They did refer me to a local M/C parts dealer named Cycle Outfitters who they said did good work and would mount my tires. Cycle Outfitters is quoting around $50.00 per wheel including computer balancing and tire disposal. So as soon as I install new rear wheel bearings today I'll be dropping the wheel/tire off. Needless to say they'll be changing my Triumph tires also. I've actually bought 5-6 batteries, multiple expensive Motorcycle helmets, a few other parts from them over the years so I don't mind having them mount tires bought elsewhere.

Anyone based on the Wirral?

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Looking for someone to ride with.

Thanks.
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