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I need help sourcing a stroker crank

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I am hoping against hope that someone on this forum can help me. I have a 2009 Nightster and want to do a build that includes stroker flywheels (4 5/16"). I called 5 different companies today and got the same answer from them all, NO can do. With that said I realize that what I want would have to be special made and need every ones help in hopefully locating anyone willing to take this on. With all the internet reading I have done in the past I have to believe if nothing else some one across the pond has gotta be able to handle this. Pretty ingenious people over there doing whatever they have to to build awesome bikes.
Please help me,

Tim

motorcycle financing

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Im needing to find something besides HD financing to refinance my bike. the dealer used a higher interest rate to help HD make money because they had to take my trade at a high price. if I refinance myself I can lower the total price. but, its hard to find bike financing. anyone found a place that does this?? my credit and income is considered very good, thats not the problem, just that cu's and banks in the area just dont like to finance bikes for some reason.

thanks in advance for any tips.

dave

Inherited a 76 XLCH

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Hey all, new to the forum as a member, but I’ve been reading threads for a few months since I realized we were getting a bike from my wife’s Dad’s estate. It has been a crappy few months and it is all finally starting to get back to normal.

Her dad was the first owner and this bike has been in her family since before she was born. He always had Harleys and as the new ones came in, this old Sporty got put in the garage and forgotten about for a long time, but it was always my wife’s favorite. I intend on bringing this old gal back from the dead. It is a piece of her childhood that deserves to be saved. So, today I loaded it in my truck and hauled it 800 miles to its new home.

(The stuff below is all from a quick visual inspection. I have been driving for 10 hours and have to work tomorrow)

The good: It has been garage kept and out of the elements. Seats look good no cracks. The metal looks ok. Has some chipping and light rust, but not terrible. Doesn’t appear to have been opened up in years.

The bad: I have no idea what was last done to this bike. It was stored with gas in the tank and the gas smells pretty gnarly. Breaks are dead. Tires held air fine on the ride home, but they look a little dry rotted. No key.

I rebuilt a 70 C10 in the past, so I know my way around a wrench and now I’m looking forward to digging through this old gal.

Ironhead New clutch help!

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So after a month or two or letting the ol ‘77 sit. Brought her back to life and put the primary case back on. She had been slipping under even the slightest load in 4th gear. This just starting happening out of the blue, and has held me back riding for obvious reasons. After looking on here and everyone else i could find, I adjusted in both directions, looser and tighter, till she was even dragging and baredly did-engaging. No fixing it, same problem with slipping under any load. Mind you, 1-3rd gear run just fine. So at this point unless I’m missing something, I was just planning on switching the plates for new ones. But I’ve never had to do such so I was curious what brand out there are worth getting! I’ve head Kevlar plates work really well. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you all!

Seized brake pad pin

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Hi all i have recently changed my front brake caliper on my 2004 883c to a 2008 Dyna one and need to put new pads in the old Sportster one i took off. The pin that holds them in is in there good and its not a socket head like i am used to seeing but a flat bladed screwdriver headed pin. You guys got a trick for getting these out or is there a tool for the job (do not say big hammer). Thanks again in advance

Clutch hub

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Got a buddy who is working on a '14 Forty-Eight....

He's learning..... He put a Barnett extra plate clutch kit in it after the grenade plate rivets decided to go on vacation.

He accidentally didn't fully engage the snapring that holds down the diaphragm spring and it broke the teeth off of the clutch hub....

Does anyone know where we can find this clutch hub piece without having to buy the entire basket and/or spend a bunch of money??

Ironhead Big bore stroker cases, need a recipe.

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Hey all,
I'm new here. I don't have a sporty but I do have a set of molested 72 Ironhead cases. My main bike is a 51FL and other project is a 79 FXEF.

I have a spare FX roller and had considered modifying the frame to take evo running gear but then I came across some photos of shortsters online and thought it could be a good project to leave the frame mostly unscathed. A friend of mine mentioned a fella locally had a set of cases that had already been divorced and had also been set up for big bore cylinders and 4 5/8" stroke. I picked them up and now I am trying to make a plan as to what I should do with them. Or if I am going to dig myself a deep and expensive hole and should bail out now. The bike wouldn't be an everyday rider but it would be for street use only.

The bloke I purchased the cases from gave me a rundown on what had been done, the holes for the cylinder spigots have been opened up to 3 7/8", they have also had rod clearance slots cut, pushrod area has been reinforced and new oil passages added. Obviously, the divorce is still in the works, much like my own. He also mentioned there was a boss shaved down inside the right case to allow for better oil flow. overall they look in pretty good shape, albeit grimey.

So to the questions:
- Is there anything else you can notice in the photos that has been done or that I should be worried about
- What size cylinders should I run to fit in that 3 7/8" hole in the cases, 3 7/16"
- I know I am already starting with cases that probably aren't the best for reliability and street use. I'm looking for opinions on what components I should be running here, what pistons, top end work etc
- It seems like a lot of the heavy lifting has been done on the cases already and as I am in Australia and there's not a lot of guys capable of the machining work required I figured maybe I could buy the barrels (trock?) and have the head work done in the US and final assembly locally. The bloke who built my pan does a good job and has a lot of knowledge but doesn't have experience with something like this

I am very green on performance stuff and even greener on Sportster stuff so forgive me if these are rookie questions.

Here is a link to all the photos of the cases

Thanks for your time.

Ironhead Carb adapter

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Ok so I ordered the Mikuni vm38-9...also ordered the manifold adapter which says for vm38/200 spigot mount..anyone know what the 200 means...its only 25$ so if it's the wrong one I can return it

Sent from my LM-X210APM using Tapatalk

Stator wire hot!

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Hey all,
I have an 03 sportster 883 that I've hardtailed and redone the wiring to a very minimal setup. It rode great for a while, but am now breaking down. I've gone through connections for loose grounds etc, and the battery is charging, but the Stator wire coming from primary, gets very hot right before the connector where it meets the regulator. I've tried this with a couple regulators, new and used, as well as a couple different coils. Stator puts out proper voltage and is charging battery. After a bit of riding, the bike dis on me. However, it seems weird to me that I did a 300 mile ride a few weeks ago without incident, and only when I got back to town is started acting up again. Anyone had similar issues or advice?
Thanks so much
Tyler

Ironhead Gratitude

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I want to thank this forum and all who are in it who helped me get to where I'm at on my 71'. Can't thank you guys enough for the guidance and suggestions as I try to finish this baby of mine...so I THANK YOU.

Sent from my LM-X210APM using Tapatalk

Ironhead Roller Starters

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Has anyone out there have or used a roller starter, if so does it work. They are a fairly large investment so I would like some first hand info if possible.
I have looked at the Perry and DocZ roller starters both seem well made, don't know of any others.
I can no longer kick my '68 over with enough authority to get it started, so a roller starter may be the way to go if I want to ride it.
Other suggestions for starting it are welcome.

Ironhead I Wish,.... 2001 Texas Iron catalog item

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Still looking for OEM '65 Bars like this shown in the old 2001 catalog that came with the bike.......... I wish, I wish. At least it proves they were out there!

Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_3842.jpg (194.5 KB)
File Type: jpg IMG_3843.jpg (144.0 KB)

Fuelpak 3 tuner

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Hey guys, so I bought new LAF Porker short pipes for my 2019 Sportster 48. I know I should tune it to get optimal performance out of it. However, the Fuelpak software doesn’t have a selection for the LAF Porker pipes. Anyone have any idea as to what pipes would be similar to them ? this is what they look like.

Headlight not working at all

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I recently had my ‘07 Sportster 883 low in the shop to have some things done to it and when I got it back I noticed that my headlight doesn’t work at all on low or high beam but my signal/running lights work fine. One of the things that the shop did to it was rewire the turn signal lights to make them running/signal lights. Not sure if that has anything to do with the headlight not working or not. I’ve tried putting a new bulb in and I’ve also replaced the light fuse, but neither of those solved the problem either. Has anyone else ever ran into a situation like this? The only things that I can thank of that maybe the problem are possibly a bad switch or maybe a loose wire somewhere or bad ground. I checked the wires inside of the light and they appear to be ok. I don’t really want to take it back to that same shop to have them look at it because they are extremely slow. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Ride Report 2019 Black Hills, Grand Teton Mtns., Rocky Mountain Ntl. Park

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Mary and I have been looking forward to this trip for over 5 months!

Tomorrow we leave for the Black Hills!!!


This year we're doing a lot of things different from previous years.

You can see many of our previous years Ride Reports at this LINK.

Here are a few of the changes we've made this year:

1. Instead of one 40-50 day trip, we're making two different 20-25 day trips.

2. More riding in less days. See how we're saving $ & time at this LINK.

3. The first trip this year we're splitting our time between riding and visiting with Family (sans motorcycle) in Idaho & Wyoming.


We'll be riding around the Black Hills...Needles Highway, Mt. Rushmore, Custer National Park, Badlands, Deadwood, Devils Tower, Spearfish Canyon and more.

Then we're headed over to The Grand Teton Mountains.

After that we'll be spending a week with family in Idaho and Wyoming.

Wrapping it up, on the way home we're planning on doing some riding in the Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado.


Mary still has the same camera, we've replaced the Drift video camera with a GoPro, and we've added a drone to the mix.

We will be posting photos (and hopefully videos) regularly during the trip.


We've loaded up all our groceries, Bike, tools, etc. and we're chomping at the bit to get on the road.

A few pics-

Loading the bike into our "Home" away from home. It sits in the removable wheel chock...





...then gets strapped down in all 4 corners...






...Ready to roll!






As you can see, even with the bike in this little trailer, we still have access to the fridge, bathroom, kitchen and bed.





This rig will get us to where we want to ride quickly, comfortably, & for less $. Once there, the bike is off-loaded and we have better accommodations than a motel, for a fraction of the cost. :)

Will post again once we're in the Black Hills riding!

Kevin

Score! CS Turnouts

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Score! New Cycle Shack turn outs with head pipes and heat shields for $80 on eBay.
I've been thinking about going the slip on route even tho I like my Straightshots but I spent all this money on engine upgrades and I know I've got some reversion going on in the lower rpm.
I was impressed with the dynos on Hammers site with the CS slip ons and recently bought a set of like new head pipes/heatshields for $70. Now I'm going to have to sell those AND my Straightshots.
I've been looking for the 2 1/2" slash cuts but they're nowhere to be found.
But $80 for brand new turnouts with pipes and heatshields is definately an awesome score.

Score! CS Turnouts

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Posted this in the buell exhaust forum by mistake.
Score! CS Turnouts
Score! New Cycle Shack turn outs with head pipes and heat shields for $80 on eBay.
I've been thinking about going the slip on route even tho I like my Straightshots but I spent all this money on engine upgrades and I know I've got some reversion going on in the lower rpm.
I was impressed with the dynos on Hammers site with the CS slip ons and recently bought a set of like new head pipes/heatshields for $60. Now I'm going to have to sell those AND my Straightshots.
I've been looking for the 2 1/2" slash cuts but they're nowhere to be found.
My original plan was the Khromewerks HP Plus slip ons.
But $80 for brand new CS turnouts with pipes and heatshields is definately an awesome score. No hardwire included but I have it all.

Never seen DIAG codes like these

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Hey peeps ! So I recently removed my stock pipes on a 2019 XL1200X to LAF short pipes. CEL is on then shut off. I ran a diag through the tec screen and obviously found 2 codes for the rear o2 sensor. HOWEVER there are separate codes that I have never seen before.

Pn 41000351e (under BCM category)
Pn 70900215a (under SPDO category)
Pn 001439-01 (under ECM category)

Any help would be greatly appreciated ! ! ! !

Ironhead My inherited 76 XLCH Ironhead Rebuild

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You ever look at something and know that you love it, but also that it might break you? I’ve felt that feeling twice now, once when I met my old lady and the first time I laid eyes on this bike. I posted some info below that I posted on the welcome page and the guys there suggested sharing this bike’s story here. One big disclaimer to this rebuild thread is that it’s going to be a long one. I work two jobs and both cash and time are tight. I’m wide open to suggestions (in fact I’m kinda in bad need of them) and I’ll be posting pictures as soon as stuff settles down around here. It’s funny because yesterday I was all gung-ho about digging into this bike and today I’m wondering just how over my head I really am, lol.

Hey all, new to the forum as a member, but I’ve been reading threads for a few months since I realized we were getting a bike from my wife’s Dad’s estate. It has been a crappy few months and it is all finally starting to get back to normal.

Her dad was the first owner and this bike has been in her family since before she was born. He always had Harleys and as the new ones came in, this old Sporty got put in the garage and forgotten about for a long time, but it was always my wife’s favorite. I intend on bringing this old gal back from the dead. It is a piece of her childhood that deserves to be saved. So, today I loaded it in my truck and hauled it 800 miles to its new home.

(The stuff below is all from a quick visual inspection. I have been driving for 10 hours and have to work tomorrow)

The good: It has been garage kept and out of the elements. Seats look good no cracks. The metal looks ok. Has some chipping and light rust, but not terrible. Doesn’t appear to have been opened up in years (not sure if that’s good yet or not)

The bad: I have no idea what was last done to this bike. It was stored with gas in the tank and the gas smells pretty gnarly. Breaks are dead. Tires held air fine on the ride home, but they look a little dry rotted. No key.

I rebuilt a 70 C10 in the past, so I know my way around a wrench and now I’m looking forward to digging through this old gal.

Skinny rear?

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Anyone running a skinnier rear tire on a 16" rear wheel? Like 120?
I seem to remember from my days in a motorcycle shop 20 yers ago, Sporties had a 120 on a 16". Maybe it was 130.
Anyway, my 2005 xl 883 is coming up for a new tyre. I'm thinking of going back to what they had when Harley decided the 16" rears were cool.
Will it fit my rim?
Reason is to sharpen up the handling a bit. The fat rear on a very old fashioned bike was never a good fit.
Flame away!
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